mon coeur de campagne

living a simpler, rural French life


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The Curtain Falls

  
La nature s’habille de givre.

Le froid est enfin la. The cold is finally here and what perfect timing!  My brother, sister, nieces and nephews celebrated Christmas with us in France and after 10 amazing days of fun, food and partying the final guests left for the airport this morning.  They left just in time. Today’s winter wonderland is heralding the first snow forecast for next week.

Freezing fog has caused a white-out, shutting out the sun and blue skies finally bringing the curtain down on 2016. 


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La Brame de Cerf

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La brame de cerf.  Photo credit: S.Guillerault

 

Le premier jour d’automne, the first day of autumn and it’s sunny and glorious.  The days are getting shorter and as twilight falls,  a guttural, roaring can be heard from the heart of the forest.  It is the cerf, the stag, the “King of the Forest” challenging his rivals.

If you are lucky you might hear la brame du cerf as you drive along in the twilight near Forest Bertranges, near Moulins Engilbert .  Look out for groups of people huddled along the side of the road waiting and then suddenly someone gets a tip off and everyone jumps into their cars to get nearer the sound.

Or wrap up warm, take a torch and join a guided tour into the woods where you will be sure to hear la brame du cerf and enjoy an apero too.

It is an unforgettable experience to hear the primeval sounds of this magnificent beast.

Click here for tour details: http://www.nievre-tourisme.com/agenda/soiree-brame-du-cerf-a-la-lanterne-fmabou058v501xjc/

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


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Portes Ouvertes

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Art and history – my bliss!  This weekend the privately owned 15th century, Chateau de Thard opened it’s doors as part of Les Journèes Europeènes du Patrimoine.

The heritage weekend takes place the third weekend of September across France.  Each year there is a theme and this year’s was Patrimoine et citoyennetè.   Public offices, monuments, historical sites, churches and chateaux open their doors to the public for a visit behind the scenes.

Chateau de Thard, a joli petit manoir, near Onlay proved to be a hidden treasure.  We drove up a long drive hidden in the woods, which opened out to amazing views high above Onlay.

The Chateau was also a perfect backdrop for an art exhibition featuring a variety of pottery, sculpture, oils, watercolours, prints and collages.

  
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http://www.chateaudethard.com


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Endings and Beginnings

  
September and la rentrèe. Time for back to school, back to uni, back to work and a welcome return to routine. Except that hasn’t been the case for us this year. There was no taking son and daughter back to UK after the summer holiday – they are both staying with us in France. Brexit has come early!

This September feels even more like a new start for me than New Year!

Jack is waiting to hear news about his dream career and is staying with us in the meantime. Charlotte has been let down by the care system in the UK and is happier, healthier and safer living with us. 

As the summer days sped to a close with plenty of endings, sad and happy, we are all looking forward to the new season bringing hope for new beginnings, goals and challenges.


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PianO du Lac

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Playing a piano on water, floating under the stars with nature providing a breath-taking backdrop, le piano du lac is a transhumance flottante across France.

3 months and 60 concerts from July to October, the piano, pianists, singers and musicians – one wearing a bespoke dinner jacket styled from a wetsuit playing the tuba underwater – are performing a mesmerising spectacle from the Alps to Paris and the south of France.

We watched the concert at the Lac de Panneciere in Le Morvan, Bourgogne-Franche-Comte enjoying a picnic and listening to the magical sounds of the piano drifting across the water.

It was a very hot day and we needed a swim before the concert. We changed on the beach and my glamorous friend Stef, donned dangly earrings and a long dress  – you would never have guessed we had come straight from the beach.

We found a nice spot and set up the picnic, a feast of local ham, olives, salad, baguette and Brie, washed down with a chilled Crement de  Bourgogne.

When the concert finished, the audience were invited up to play.  We listened to a fabulous mix of classic music, rock n roll and pop as the night enveloped us and the stars twinkled in the sky.

It was an unforgettable way to spend a summer’s evening.

http://www.pianodulac.fr

 

 

 

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Slip between the sheets 

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We’re in the middle of a heatwave in Le Morvan and it is hotter than the south of France.

During the day when the heat is on we jump in the local lac but at night it’s a different story!  Luckily our collection of vintage French linen is beautifully cool to the touch. Collected over a few years from brocantes, our linen treasures have pretty details, monograms and exquisite embroidery. 

It was the tradition to embroider bed linen as part of a young bride’s trousseau and back in the Middle Ages linen was worn next to the skin by those who could afford it. The wicking properties of linen means that it soaks up moisture and you don’t end up with clammy sheets sticking to you. Perfect for these hot summer nights.

Buy linens  or Metis – a linen and cotton mix – as crisp as you can find and they will soften up after washing.

The simple linen sheet in the photo has a hand stitched centre seam which reveals that it is at least a hundred years old.  It is harder to find the linen bargains now but they are still out there waiting to be uncovered.

 

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Insider Tips to French Café Society

 

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Sitting outside a café sipping a coffee and watching the world go by is part of daily life in France.  Manners and etiquette are important here so here’s a few tips to help keep you out of hot water!

As you arrive always greet the Monsieur, Madame or Mademoiselle behind the bar with a bonjour and a general bonjour to everyone in the room.  This is the case, especially in rural France when you enter a shop, post office, doctor.. anywhere…obviously not in a large supermarché and it maybe a bit different in Paris and large towns!  If you decide to sit on the terrace, find a seat and the waiter will come to you.

Always be polite in France. Manners count for a lot and a little politeness goes a long way.  No shouting or calling across the café to gain the attention of the waiter.  Remember merci and s’il vous plait!

Did you know the cost of your coffee depends on where you sit?  Outside on the terrace is always more expensive but sitting up at the bar is the cheapest and you can enjoy the atmosphere.

If you ask for ‘un café s’il vous plait’ the waiter will bring you a café noir or café express in a small expresso sized cup. It will be served with sugar cubes or sugar wraps on the saucer and a tiny biscuit or a chocolate covered almond.  The other popular coffee, mostly drunk at breakfast time is a café crème or café au lait with hot milk, served in a larger cup.

A custom I love is that if the café does not serve croissants or gateaux you can buy your cakes elsewhere and eat them in the café.  I would always check first out of politeness.  We did this recently, before we opened our big box of cakes on the table and the waitress even provided serviettes, plates and knives!!

Bottled water can be expensive and I am happy to drink Eau du robinet (tap water).  If you ask for a verre or pitcher d’eau du robinet you won’t be charged.

For a delicious treat, order a Café Gourmand, a petit café with a selection of bite sized desserts served alongside.

 

cafe gourmand

You are generally left alone to take your time to enjoy your coffee.  Lots of cafés and bars, even in rural France have free Wi-Fi (internet). When you do decide that you want l‘addition, (the bill), the service charge is already included.  You will see the words Servis Compris on the bill which means service is already included in the total to be paid.

A small extra tip is still a nice gesture to recognise good service as that will go directly to your waiter.

What have your experiences been like?  I would love to know.

Please comment and share.

 

 

 


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Women! We all need to live in the woods

Direction Luzy

No surprise to hear that research has found contact with nature is soothing, restorative and good for mental health.  The School of Public Health at the University of Washington and Nurses Healthy Study surveyed over 100,000 women finding that the women who live in greener areas have a 12% lower mortality rate than those who live in polluted environments.  Having access to green spaces where you can exercise and be active also plays an important role in having a healthy lifestyle.

We live in Le Morvan, Bourgogne in a sea of green, surrounded by forests and ancient woodland.  We enjoy the freshest air in Europe and never miss the opportunity to go for a walk even in the rain!

A walk first thing clears my head, I drink in the views, enjoy the solitude and it sets me up for the day. A quick break outside mid afternoon gives an energy boost and if I am looking for inspiration it even  helps me problem solve and come up with ideas.

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A walk in the peaceful green woods, with trees towering cathedral like high above is great therapy.

The fact that a village 10 minutes away has the highest amount of people aged over 90 in the area seems to endorse the research.  One old lady celebrated her 105th birthday with a glass of champagne and a big piece of cake, putting her longevity down to eating everything and of course, the fresh air!

Nature really is the best therapy and it’s free. So never mind how big your patch of green is, get out there and enjoy it!